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Cyprus In Brief
The people of Cyprus owe their individuality and warmth to the fact that they are the product of an amazingly colourful history. This sun drenched island has been at the crossroads of world events for centuries.
Roman, Byzantine, Greek and British influences (to name just a few) have all had a bearing on life in Cyprus.
Perhaps that’s why Cypriots have a special knack of making visitors feel at home as soon as they step off the plane or ship. That warm welcome, plus the unhurried pace of daily life, makes Cyprus an instant favourite of anyone who goes there.
The island nation is a fascinating land of contrasts. It has some of the most sophisticated cities in the region, and yet, a short distance away, you can feel as if you have stepped back into a previous century, not just the 19th, but far back to a time when people pursued simpler pleasures.
Drop into almost any country taverna, or join the locals at a town market, and you will feel the atmosphere of a way of life that has remained essentially the same for centuries.
The island has proved irresistible to many famous historical personalities, such as Cleopatra, Alexander the Great, Leonard da Vinci and Richard the Lion Heart. When Richard freed his imprisoned bride-to-be, Berengaria of Navarre, in 1191, Cypriots all across the island seized on the opportunity to have a party!
As you can see, a delight in having a good time is at the heart of the Cypriot personality.
Observe the fun Cypriots have when they go out — perhaps in large family groups — to eat and drink, and you will see how important a lust for life is on this enchanted island. Get to know the people, and you will probably be invited back to a Cypriot home to enjoy a meal of meze. Then, you’ll truly learn the meaning of the word “hospitality.”
Although a small country, Cyprus has an almost overwhelming cultural heritage. Wherever you travel you will find ancient monuments and sites, churches and monasteries bearing silent witness to over 9 000 years of civilization and history.
Cyprus lies at the crossroads of Africa, Asia and Europe and this exotic mix is well-reflected in Cyprus' cultural history.. It has had a tumultuous past, its history is primarily that of occupation. The conquerors have had a strong influence on the Cypriot character, leaving an impression on the land, in the arts and forming the bedrock of Cypriot culture.
7000-3900 BC NEOLITHIC AGE
The first settlers came to Cyprus during the Neolithic or Stone Age, possibly on rafts from Asia Minor. One of the largest known settlements was at Khirokitia where the remains of 'beehive' stone houses can be found. Other remains can be found at Kalavassos (Tenta), off the Nicosia-Limassol road. This civilization had developed along the North and South coasts. First only stone vessels were used. After 5000 B.C., the art of pottery was invented.
3900-2500 BC CHALCOLITHIC AGE Most Chalcolithic establishments were found in Western Cyprus, where a fertility cult developed. The copper of the island began to be exploited and used.
This was a transition phase between the Stone and Bronze Ages.
2500-1050 BC BRONZE AGE
Copper was now widely exploited and was exported to the countries of the Levant and Aegean. Settlements from this period are found all over Cyprus - Nicosia (Ayia Paraskevi), Sotira, Morphou.
Fortresses were erected as protection against raids by Hyksos. Kalopsida developed as an important trading centre. Settlers from surrounding countries arrived.
A period of cultural innovation. The development of a distinctive script, advances in ceramics, strengthening of ties with the Greek civilization. The Cypro-Minoan script developed during this period. Arrival of Greek Mycenaeans. Mycenaean pots date from this period. Strengthening of ties with the Greek world - language, customs, religion.
Arrival of Achaeans, establishment of new cities which were to later become city states and independent kingdoms - Amathus, Curium, Kition ...
The strategic location of Cyprus and its natural resources attracted the attention of many invaders and rulers. Assyrians, Egyptians and Persians raided the island.
Earthquakes caused the destruction and abandonment of many cities.
1050-750 BC GEOMETRIC PERIOD
Some of the destroyed cities were rebuilt and several new ones established during the first 100 years of this period. The Phoenicians arrived and settled, dominating the city of Kition - later to become their most powerful stronghold. Salamis, Paphos, Curium, and Amathus thrived during this period. There were ten Kingdoms in the island - Salamis, Paphos, Curium, Soloi, Tamassos, Ledra, Kition, Amathus, Idalion, and Chytroi. The 8th century B.C. was a period of great prosperity.
750-325 BC ARCHAIC AND CLASSICAL PERIOD
The era of prosperity continued, but the island fell prey to several conquerors. Cypriot Kingdoms tried to preserve their independence but came variously under the domination of Assyria, Egypt and lastly Persia. King Evagoras of Salamis (who ruled from 411-374 BC) rebeled against Persia and unified the island but, after a great siege had to conclude peace with Persia and lost control of the whole island.
Persian domination ended following the intervention of Alexander the Great and his victory at Tyre.
325-58 BC HELLENISTIC PERIOD
The intervention of Alexander the Great ushered in the Hellenistic period. On his death the empire was fought over by Ptolemy and Antigonos. Eventually Ptolemy prevailed. Cyprus was annexed by Egypt with Alexandria as its capital. A governor-general was appointed to run Cyprus. The Cypriot kingdoms were abolished in 312 BC.
During this period the arts flourished. It was also a time of public works - theatres, gymnasiums were established. Paphos flourished as the capital of Cyprus. This was a period of wealth for Cyprus.
58 BC - 330 AD ROMAN PERIOD
Rome annexed Cyprus in 58 BC, first as a province of Syria, then as a separate province under a proconsul. A period of large public buildings - the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates at Kourion, the Temple of Zeus at Salamis. Further impressive remains can be found at Nea Paphos and Soli.
Both Julius Caesar and Mark Anthony offered Cyprus as a gift to Cleopatra.
The Roman period saw the spread of Christianity. The Apostles Paul, Barnabas and Mark landed in Cyprus in the year 45 AD. During the missionary journeys by Saints Paul and Barnabas, the Proconsul, Sergius Paulus was converted to Christianity and Cyprus became the first country to be governed by Christian.
The first Bishoprics were established on the island. Barnabas died a Martyrs death in Salamis.
Destructive earthquakes occurred during the 1st century B.C. and the 1st A.D. and cities were rebuilt. A Jewish revolt in 116 AD led to the death of an estimated 240,000 people and the destruction of Salamis, later rebuilt with financial help from Emperor Hadrian. There was great loss of life from the plague in 164 AD.
The Roman period came to an end with the division of the Roman Empire. Cyprus become part of the Byzantine Empire.
330-1191 AD BYZANTINE PERIOD The first two centuries were peaceful and prosperous. Constantine had officially recognised Christianity in 313 AD. In the late 4th century AD Emperor Theodosius ordered the closure of all pagan temples. This put an end to the rituals at the Temple of Aphrodite in Paphos, though worship of Aphrodite continued to the present day.
Helena, the mother of Constantine visited the island in 327 AD on her way from Jerusalem. She carried a fragment of the holy cross. A 36 year drought and famine ended on her arrival. She was prompted in a dream to found the Monastery at Stavrovouni. Within the monastery the fragment of the cross is kept in a gold case.
More earthquakes during the 4th century A.D. completely destroyed the main cities.
Cities lost their splendour and remained in ruins. New cities arose, Constantia (Salamis) was now the capital, and large basilicas were built as from the 4-5th century A.D. In 488, after the tomb of St. Barnabas was found, Emperor Zeno gave the Archibishop of Cyprus full autonomy and privileges including holding a sceptre instead of a pastoral staff, wearing a purple mantle and signing in red ink.
The first of a series of Arab raids took place in 647 AD. Again in 653 and 654. These escalated over a period of about 300 years. The harbour towns of Paphos, Kourion and Lambousa were depleted as the inhabitants moved to higher, safer ground further inland. Arabs were not finally removed from the island until 965 AD.
1191-1192 AD RICHARD THE LIONHEART AND THE TEMPLARS Isaac Comnenus, self proclaimed governor of Cyprus, was discourteous to survivors of a shipwreck involving ships of Richard I's fleet on their way to the Third Crusade. Richard defeated Isaac and took possession of Cyprus, marrying Berengaria of Navarree in Limassol, where she was crowned Queen of England. Richard then sold the island to the Knights Templars for 100,000 dinars but they resold it at the same price to Guy de Lusignan, one of the Crusader Knights.
1192-1489 AD FRANKISH (LUSIGNAN) PERIOD
Cyprus was ruled on the feudal system and the Cypriots reduced to the status of serfs. Catholicism officially replaced Greek Orthodox as the official religion . The Orthodox church was persecuted although manages to survive.
Many beautiful gothic buildings belong to this period including the Cathedrals of Ayia Sophia in Nicosia, Saint Nicholas in Famagusta and Bellapais Abbey. The city of Famagusta became one of the richest in the Near East, and Nicosia became the capital of Cyprus and the seat of the Lusignan Kings.
There were frequent raids on the island, the Genoese and Mamelukes caused widespread devastation. When the Genoese seized Famagusta the Venetians were called upon to help. The Venetians routed the Genoese, promptly annexing Cyprus for themselves
1489-1571 AD VENETIAN PERIOD
The Venetians saw Cyprus as a last bastion against the Ottomans in the east Mediterranean, and fortified the island, tearing down lovely buildings in Nicosia to construct massive fortresses against the threat of an Ottoman invasion. Both Nicosia and Famagusta were encircled by great walls and bastions, the remains of which can still be seen. The Turks stormed Nicosia in 1570 and Famagusta in 1572 bringing to an end the Venetian period.
1571- 1878 AD OTTOMAN PERIOD
In 1570 troops attacked Cyprus, captured Nicosia, slaughtered the population (20,000) and laid siege to Famagusta for a year. After a brave defense by Venetian commander Marc Antonio Bragadin, Famagusta capitulated to the Ottoman commander Lala Mustafa, who first gave free passage to the besieged but when he saw how few there were, ordered the flaying, drawing and quartering of Bragadin and put the others to death. On annexation to the Ottoman Empire, the Latin Church was expelled or converted to Islam and the Greek Orthodox faith restored; in time, the Archbishop, as leader of the Greek Orthodox, became their representative to the Porte. Many Turks arrived and settled on the island creating the two communities. Under Turkish rule the island fell into economic decline.
When the Greek War of Independence broke out in 1821, the Archbishop of Cyprus, Kyprianos, three bishops and hundreds of civic leaders were executed, to try to stop the same thing happening in Cyprus.
In 1878 under the terms of an alliance the Sultan ceded Cyprus to the British for the purpose of defence and administration, though it remained the property of the Sultan.
1878-1960 BRITISH PERIOD
Under the 1878 Cyprus Convention, Britain assumed administration of the island, which remained formally part of the Ottoman Empire until 1914 when Britain annexed Cyprus, after the Ottoman Empire entered the First World War on the side of Germany. In 1923 under the Treaty of Lausanne, Turkey renounced any claim to Cyprus. In 1925 Cyprus was declared a Crown colony. In 1940 Cypriot volunteers served in various branches of the British Armed Forces throughout the Second World War.
Under British rule the island prospered. Problems arose when many Greek Cypriots began to demand union with Greece. This also sent alarm bells ringing in the minority Turkish community. The demand for unity with Greece pre-dates British rule and dates back to the independence of Greece.
In 1950 and again in 1955 the Cypriots asked the UN to recognize their demand for independence.
In 1955 Colonel George Grivas launched an armed struggle for independence against the British (or a terrorist campaign depending upon your viewpoint).
The British brought in troops to quell the disturbances. This proved to be counter-productive and merely generated more support amongst the Greek Cypriots. The British then made a grave mistake, a mistake that was to lead to riots, splits between Greek and Turkish Cypriots and the eventual partition of the island.
Playing on Turkish Cypriot fears and with the collusion of the Turks, the British set up Turkish Cypriot terror units. These proved all too successful, the different communities retreated into their own enclaves, and the island came very close to civil war a few years later during independence.
Two more appeals were made to the UN in 1957. A fifth appeal was made in September 1958.
The British Prime Minister, Harold Macmillan, put forward plans for the partition of Cyprus. These led to Greco-Turkish talks which finally led to the Zurich Agreement, signed in London in February 1959. Under the Zurich Agreement Cyprus was to become an independent state with Britain, Greece and Turkey acting as guarantors.
1960 REPUBLIC OF CYPRUS In 1960 Cyprus was inaugurated as the independent Republic of Cyprus with Archbishop Makarios as the first President of Cyprus. It became a member of the United Nations, the Council of Europe and the Commonwealth as well as the Non-Aligned Movement.
Cyprus had gained independence but it was not at peace with itself.
The 1960 Constitution of the Cyprus Republic proved unworkable in many of its provisions, and this made impossible its smooth implementation. When in 1963, the President of the Republic proposed some amendments, the Turkish community responded with rebellion (Dec. 1963), the Turkish ministers withdrew from the Cabinet and the Turkish civil servants ceased attending their offices while Turkey threatened to invade Cyprus. Ever since then, the aim of the Turkish Cypriot leadership, acting on instructions from the Turkish Government, has been the partitioning of Cyprus and annexation by Turkey.
Inter-ethnic fighting periodically flared up, in August 1964 Turkey launched air strikes against Cyprus, in the same year UN troops were dispatched to the island in an attempt to keep the peace between the two communities (and have been there ever since). Makarios's relationship with the fascist regime in Greece gradually deteriorated. The demand for union with Greece had not gone away. A group of Cypriots, with the backing of the military junta in Greece, launched a coup against Makarios and appointed Nicos Sampson as President. This gave Turkey the excuse it was looking for, five days later Turkey invaded Cyprus.
1974 TURKISH INVASION In July 1974, a coup was staged in Cyprus by the Military junta, then in power in Athens, for the overthrow of President Makarios. On 20 July 1974, Turkey launched an invasion with 40,000 troops against defenseless Cyprus. Since 1974, 37% of the island is under Turkish military occupation and 200,000 Greek Cypriots, 40% of the total Greek Cypriot population, were forced to leave their homes in the occupied area and were turned into refugees. The invasion of Turkey and the occupation of 37% of the island's territory as well as the continuing violation of the fundamental human rights of the people of Cyprus have been condemned by international bodies, such as the UN General Assembly, the Non-aligned Movement, the Commonwealth and the Council of Europe.
In 1983 the North was unilaterally declared as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. A state that no other country with the exception of Turkey recognises.
Cyprus is today a divided island. A green line divides the island. On the Turkish side razor wire, minefields, watch-towers every few hundred metres. A scene reminiscent of the cold war and the Iron Curtain dividing East and West Germany. Famagusta is a ghost town. Many refugees, both Turkish and Greek Cypriots fled to the South. Turkish Cypriots were forced by their own leaders and the action of illegal paramilitary units to flee to the occupied north.
An estimated 40-50,000 Turkish troops illegally occupy Northern Cyprus. Possibly as many as 100,000 Turkish settlers, many against their will, have moved into Northern Cyprus. Reports filter out of systematic and widespread plunder and destruction of Greek archaeological sites. Younger Turkish Cypriots are emigrating, either to Europe, the USA, or Turkey, leaving behind an ageing and increasingly despondent native population. The North increasingly looks like a Turkish colony.
With the exception of the North, Cyprus has flourished under the influence of tourism. The North has steadily declined under Turkish occupation.
The Republic of Cyprus applied for membership of the European Community, and in May 2004 entered the European family as the only divided country left in Europe.
The cultural heritage of Cyprus goes back more than 9000 years. Of course, today the situation in Cyprus brings with it that most of everybody's attention go to the events of the last 20 years rather than to those of several millennia ago. The north of the island is the Turkish part. Names of cities and villages are being changed to Turkish and there is a lot of effort to make the inhabitants embrace the life and culture of its northern neighbour. The Republic is also trying to create an independent identity, and many places in the Republic have recently been renamed as well.
However, there are numerous relics from the rich past of this island. Relics from every era - Greek temples, Roman mosaics and 15th-century wall-paintings, mosques. Most of these remainders of the past still influence the artists of today. Many villages specialize in a particular art form. During a trip around Cyprus the visitor can see pottery, silver and copperware, basket weaving, tapestry and Lefkara's famous lacework, all being manufactured on the spot.
The division is also clearly visible in the religious field : the northerners are mostly Sunni Muslim, whereas the southerners are Greek Orthodox. However Food, doesn't seem to reflect the divide: in both the North and the Republic you'll find a mix of Turkish, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisine. But wherever you are in Cyprus, you'll come across kleftiko (oven-baked lamb) and mezedes (dips, salads and other appetizers). Cyprus is also famous for its fruit, which the government protects with a ban on imported products. You'll find strawberries, stone fruit, melons, prickly pear, citrus and grapes.
The Mediterranean climate, warm and rather dry, with rainfall mainly between November and March, favors agriculture. In general, the island experiences mild wet winters and dry hot summers. Variations in temperature and rainfall are governed by altitude and, to a lesser extent, distance from the coast.
The higher mountain areas are cooler and moister than the rest of the island. They receive the heaviest annual rainfall, which may be as much as 1,000 millimeters. Sharp frost also occurs in the higher districts, which are usually blanketed with snow during the first months of the year. Plains along the northern coast and in the Karpas Peninsula area average 400 to 450 millimeters of annual rainfall. The least rainfall occurs in the Mesaoria, with 300 to 400 millimeters a year. Variability in annual rainfall is characteristic for the island, however, and droughts are frequent and sometimes severe. Earthquakes, usually not destructive, occur from time to time.
Summer temperatures are high in the lowlands, even near the sea, and reach particularly uncomfortable readings in the Mesaoria. Because of the scorching heat of the lowlands, some of the villages in the Troodos have developed as resort areas, with summer as well as winter seasons. The mean annual temperature for the island as a whole is about 20 C. The amount of sunshine the island enjoys enhances the tourist industry. On the Mesaoria in the eastern lowland, for example, there is bright sunshine 75 percent of the time. During the four summer months, there is an average of eleven and half hours of sunshine each day, and in the cloudiest winter months there is an average of five and half hours per day.
What to Wear . . . and When
Cyprus enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with abundant sunshine year round. Long dry summers and mild winters are separated by short autumn and spring seasons.
Summer is a time of high temperatures with cloudless skies, but the sea breeze creates a pleasant atmosphere in the coastal areas.
Winters are mild, with some rain and snow on Troodos Mountains.
March Winter - apparel with medium-weight wear.
April, May Blossom season. - Medium-weight and summer apparel: Light woollies or long sleeved cotton for the evenings.
June, July, August - Very light-weight summer clothing. Ideal for swimming and all beach/water activities.
September, October - Light-weight apparel for the day and medium-weight for the evenings in October.
November - Medium-weight apparel. Light sweaters.
December, January, February - Winter clothing, not heavy coats though!
Cyprus Lefkosia (Nicosia)
Without a doubt, Lefkosia (Nicosia) the 1000 year old capital of Cyprus should be on every visitor's agenda. It lies roughly in the centre of the island; within easy reach of the other towns and a day in Lefkosia will be a day well spent.
The old walled city of Lefkosia is unique and definitely the place to head for first. Encircled by strong fortress walls built by the Venetians in the 16th century, the enchanting old city is scattered with buildings and monuments of historical interest as well as little shops, cafes and tavernas.
The Lefkosia Jewellery Museum and the Municipal Arts Centre are both well worth a visit. The 'Leventeion' Municipal Museum of Lefkosia, with an imaginative presentation of the capital's history, was awarded the title '1991 European Museum of the Year'.
To walk through the old city is to step back in time. Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balconies jut out from weather beaten sandstone walls, and craftsmen in small workshops practise trades unchanged for centuries. 'Laiki Geitonia' - Folk Neighbourhood - is a pedestrian section, which has been carefully renovated to evoke the atmosphere of past days. The two main streets of old Lefkosia, Lidra and Onasagorou, are lined with shops of every type, and both streets are pedestrian only.
Not to be missed, is the unique Cyprus Museum, housing the island's most important collection of Cypriot antiquities and treasures from the Neolithic Age to the Roman Period. In contrast to these ancient finds is the State Collection of Contemporary Art, and on the other side of town, just off the main Lemesos road, is the Cyprus Handicraft Centre.
Another award winner is the city's renovated 'Pyli Ammochostou' - Famagusta Gate - one of the original entrances to the old city, which won the Europa Nostra award for its restoration. Many old churches are to be found in this part of town, and other places of interest are the Folk Art and Byzantine Museums, the Archbishopric, the Cathedral of Agios Ioannis with its beautiful frescoes, the National Struggle Museum and the intriguing house of Chatzigeorgakis Kornesios - a fine example of l8th century architecture - which houses the Ethnological Museum.
Not far from these monuments is the 'Green Line' that divides the Republic from the illegally occupied area to the north. It has been in existence since 1974 when Turkish troops invaded the island and claimed 37% of northern Cyprus as a breakaway pseudo-state that has since been recognised by no nation, other than Turkey.
The modern city that has developed outside the walls is a cosmopolitan centre of business and culture. Lefkosia is regarded as the shopping heart of Cyprus, with a variety of restaurants, discos and bars.
Within easy reach of the capital are such historic gems as the l2th century painted church of Asinou, the regal tombs at Tamassos, the ancient city-kingdom of Idalion and the enchanting villages of Fikardou and Kakopetria.
Cyprus Paphos Paphos is rapidly becoming the most important tourist center of Cyprus. It is a small city with about 30,000 inhabitants.
The old Paphos is a small town, called Ktima. Today, there is also a modern Paphos, called Kato Paphos, which is the tourist neighborhood. This modern resort has many hotels, a boulevard with different cafes and bars, and only 20 minutes drive away, four 18 hole golf courses, Secret Valley, Minthis Hills, Aphrodite Hills and Elea Estates.
Paphos is a romantic city with a vibrant night-life. Close to the harbor are several archeological sites. In former times Nea Paphos was the most important city of the island, but earthquakes and invasions of the Saracens drove most of the people to the neighboring hamlet of Ktima.
For lovers of ancient culture, Paphos is a must. Some places to visit are : the Paphos District Museum (a collection of archeological findings), the Georgios Eliades collection in Exo Vrysis Street (fossils and archeological objects), the Byzantine fortress of Saranda Kolones (the 40 columns), the house of Dionysus (a Roman villa from the third century that was excavated in 1962 and that has some splendid mosaics), the house of Theseus (excavated in 1965) and the Tombs of the Kings on the west coast of Paphos.
Cyprus Larnaca The place which is now called Larnaca is probably the oldest inhabited place in Cyprus.
The present city is built on the foundations of the old city state Kition (founded, according to legend, by the grandson of Noah). During the 20th century the city lost most of its importance to Famagusta. Because of the division of the island and the construction of the international airport at Larnaca, however, Larnaca is again a thriving center.
The places to visit are : the Turkish fortress (now a museum), the impressive church Church of Saint Lazarus (after his resurrection Lazarus is told to have become bishop in Cyprus). The church is supposed to have been built above his tomb. About 5 km west of Larnaca is a 4 km² salt lake. On the borders of the lake one can see the Muslim sanctuary Hala Sultan Tekke which contains the relics of Umm Haram, the aunt of the Prophet Mohammed, who died here in 647 AD.
Cyprus Limassol Limassol lies on the south coast of the island, halfway between Larnaca and Paphos. Already in 2.000 BC people lived here, but it was only during the time of the crusaders that it became a flourishing city.
Limassol is the second largest city of Cyprus, and certainly the most lively one. Cypriots sometimes call it "the Paris of Cyprus". There is always some festival or celebration going on in town. Very renowned is the Wine Festival that takes place in September.
On the eastern side of the city are sandy beaches that stretch out for miles. Lovers of night-life fun will certainly not be disappointed in the many bars and discotheques in the old city.
The most important monuments are : the Limassol castle, the museum, and the wine producing companies. Outside of the city is the former royal town of Amathus (now a ruin, partially submerged by water). Kolossi Castle is a remainder of the Knights Templar and was the commanderia (the commanders castle) of the area, which also produced the famous sweet wine of Cyprus, Commandaria. The old city state of Kourion is close by and has a well restored theatre, which still holds perfomances of music and plays. A basilica and a stadium are also preserved.
